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Fuse question
#1
So I recently blew a fuse in my AEG, and I had a few questions for the more experienced airsoft mechanics out there.

1) It was a 15A fuse, when I replace it should I get a higher one or stick with the same Amp level. Ehobby asia has 15A and 20A available, and I figure I could also find them in a hardware store somewhere.

2) I did bypass test and the motor was working fine. I read some posts on other boards that said some people run their guns with no fuses just fine. Is that safe?

3) I think I blew my fuse when I installed a new handgrip. It's a Magpul style MOE grip with a built in heat sink. How tight should I screw in the heat sink?
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#2
The responsibility of the fuse is to keep your electronics/electrical system safe in case of an overload. So whilst you can put on a higher amp fuse, you may risk blowing some other part (say the motor, or whatever). Having said that I've used 20A fuses myself.

However since going for FETs (or in my case, AB-FETs) I've ditched the fuse altogether. My AB-FET comes with a resettable fuse. I do not recommend running a stock (non-FETted) AEG without a fuse.

As for the handgrip, I'm not certain what you mean by heatsink...the screw at the bottom is the motor height adjustment. If you tighten your motor too tight to the point it cannot spin the gears, you can cause friction and in turn overheating and result in blowing your fuse. In all my Magpul PTS grips (MOE or MIAD) I found that I have to keep the motor height adjustment quite "loose"...more so than other 3rd party grips.
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#3
A few of my AEGs ran without fuses. In general, since the forces inside Japan legal AEGs aren't too great, you can run them without fuses provided you know what is happening inside. Meaning, you know when something is amiss and you can stop yourself before any damage occurs. Fuses trip when the current running through them is higher than what they're made for. In AEGs, this happens when the motor is taking more effort to turn than usual for whatever reason, making it draw more current from the battery. The most common reason for this is the motor is too deep inside the gearbox (adjustment screw too tight). Other reasons usually point to some sort of mechanical failure that impedes gear rotation.

I suggest that you solve the problem that caused the fuse to trip first before replacing it. Else you'll burn through a lot of fuses. If it's the adjustment, bypass the fuse first while adjusting. If you notice that the motor makes a slow sound despite a new battery during adjustment, loosen it. If it becomes fast but noisy, tighten. Adjust it a quarter of a turn at a time.
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#4
Thanks for the help guys. I adjusted the motor tightness a bit at a time like you said, and then I popped in a new fuse. All's good now.
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