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TM CQB-R Upgrades
#16
Q / GingaNinja - thanks for the info, very helpful. Hope WiskieTango finds it as useful as I am. I'm going to have to give it a re-read later tonight.

WiskieTango - I found this post searching the forums on opening up the sopmod... this one is several pages long so haven't been able to read it all yet, but should be useful if you are looking to do some work on your gun.

http://www.tkoverkill.com/showthread.php?tid=375
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#17
I've done a number of things to my SOPMOD too and by experience this is what you'll need:

1. Matched barrel length and cylinder
2. Ported piston head
3. Shim adjustment

Anything else, like the ones below are nice to have but optional.
* Inner barrel change - change only if you want a longer barrel or if the barrel is damaged in some way. If you can manage to get a (longer) stock barrel get that instead. As long as you keep the inner barrel clean and straight there will be no need to upgrade this.
* High torque motor - I got an Echigoya one. The "new version 2" mechbox requires higher torque to turn the gears. This is the conclusion we came to due to the occasional "lock ups" that stock guns go through when the battery is drained. Response did improve even for an 8.4V battery.
* Cylinder head/nozzle - a durability upgrade since the cylinder head nozzle and the moving air nozzle is long.
* Bearings/bushings - for durability and efficient operation. CAUTION: the stock bushings are shorter than some aftermarket ones. If you do not file down the left hand side bushings it will interfere with the selector and it will break the selector lever. Aftermarket selector levers can be used with a bit of modification
* H-Hop nub - for improved BB flight. Stock Marui hop-up rubbers are still the best so no need to replace.
* Battery - 9.6V or a 7.4V LiPo with high C.
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#18
Well gentlemen, I tried to take off the front iron sight yesterday with no luck. I was able to get the push pins out but I could not get that release screw to turn for the life of me. If that is even how the new TM CQB-R front sight works anyways..

I notice that the front iron sight is slight attached to a metal plate that sits in between the RIS/gas tube and the iron sight. If I remove the iron sight, i dont think that plate will stay there on its own. So that would leave my gas tube and what not exposed. Is there a way that I can remove the iron sight and keep that plate in place with out it, so that my gas tube is not exposed?

I might head to echigoya in shinjuku today to check on some parts. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


WiskieT

UPDATE:

Called around today and found out that the new TM CQB-R is a bit different when taking off the front sight. You actually have to pull out the inner barrel first from what the guy said. Then you should be able to access the screw with no issues apparently. Haven't tried it yet because I also found out I need to purchase a gas block. So right now i am looking around for a minimal/almost non existent gas block. I love the way my gun looks already I just want that horribly looking front sight off lol.
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#19
UPDATE:

Called around today and found out that the new TM CQB-R is a bit different when taking off the front sight. You actually have to pull out the inner barrel first from what the guy said. Then you should be able to access the screw with no issues apparently. Haven't tried it yet because I also found out I need to purchase a gas block. So right now i am looking around for a minimal/almost non existent gas block. I love the way my gun looks already I just want that horribly looking front sight off lol.
[/quote]

I removed it 2 days ago Smile you have to unscrew it through the hole on the bottom (all the way through the outer barrel) just as the guy said have to remove the inner barrel first
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#20
(09-05-2010, 10:59 AM)Q Wrote: Now about the Tanio Koba twist barrels. From what I've read in other forums and from my personal use I can't say that the TK twist is any better than a PDI 6.01 or Prometheus 6.03 tightbore. The result to me seems to be the same. The idea of the TK twist is that it "cushion's" the BB by rifling the air around it making it more steady. It's also designed to be used for under 1J and doesn't work in higher J or higher FPS setups. Not that it matters since we're in Japan and we're limited to under 1J anyway. The problem is with actual tests performed by other airsofters around the world, there is no conclusive result - some say it's not worth the money, others are so happy with it. Again -my- personal experience is that with the same setup, I find no difference in accuracy with TK twist vs a tightbore for Japan's 1J. Both the twist & the tightbore are an improvement over stock, but not against each other.

I have to agree with Q 100 percent. I tried out both a TK twist and a PDI 6.01 in my VSR 10 and noticed no difference in range or accuracy. Just wish I had had a chronograph so I could have seen if there was any and how much of a meter per second change.
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